One of the biggest differences between novice and experienced climbers isn’t just physical strength or flexibility—it’s the ability to “read” rock and plan efficient routes. Route reading, sometimes called “beta reading,” is the skill of analyzing a climbing route before you start, identifying the best sequence of moves, and executing your plan efficiently. This mental aspect of climbing can often be the difference between sending a route smoothly and struggling unnecessarily.

The Foundation: What is Route Reading?

Route reading involves analyzing a climbing route from the ground (or hanging position) to identify:

• Hold types and quality
• Body positioning options
• Sequence of movements
• Rest opportunities
• Crux (hardest) sections
• Potential problem areas

Think of it as creating a mental map before you start climbing, similar to how you’d study a trail map before hiking in unfamiliar terrain.

The Visual Scan: Starting Your Analysis

Step 1: The Big Picture

Begin by looking at the entire route from bottom to top:

Identify the line: Where does the route actually go? Look for:

• Bolt lines on sport routes
• Crack systems on traditional routes
• Color-coded holds in the gym
• Natural features that suggest the intended path

Spot obvious features:

• Large holds or ledges (potential rest spots)
• Roof sections or overhangs (prepare for pumpy sections)
• Corner systems or dihedrals
• Blank sections (technical, balance-dependent climbing)

Step 2: Section Analysis

Break the route into manageable sections:

Bottom section (0-25%): Usually easier, good for warming up and getting into the rhythm Middle sections (25-75%): Often where the main difficulties lie Top section (75-100%): Can be deceiving—don’t underestimate the pump factor

Hold Identification and Assessment

Reading Hold Types

Jugs (large handholds):

• Easy to spot and grip
• Perfect for resting and regrouping
• Plan to use these for shake-outs

Crimps (small edge holds):

• Require precise finger placement
• Often more pumpy to hold
• Look for the best part of the edge

Slopers (rounded holds):

• Rely on friction and body position
• Often require specific body positioning
• May need to be “compressed” with both hands

Pockets:

• Finger holes in the rock
• Count the finger capacity (one, two, or three fingers)
• Consider which fingers work best

Pinches:

• Holds gripped with thumb opposition
• Often require specific hand orientation
• Look for the narrowest, most positive part

Assessing Hold Quality

Size: Bigger isn’t always better—sometimes a small, positive hold is better than a large, sloping one Angle: How does the hold face? Straight down, angled, or sloping away? Texture: Smooth rock offers less friction than textured surfaces Depth: Incut holds are generally easier than flat or sloping ones

Footwork Planning: The Foundation of Efficiency

Identifying Foot Holds

Good climbers plan their feet as much as their hands:

High-quality foot holds:

• Obvious ledges or edges
• Crystal formations or texture changes
• Horizontal cracks
• Textured patches

Foot placement principles:

• Look for holds that allow you to stand tall and reach up efficiently
• Identify holds that keep your body in balance
• Plan for direction changes or dynamic moves

Sequence Considerations

Inside vs. Outside: Plan which foot goes where to avoid crossing over Heel hooks and toe hooks: Advanced foot techniques for specific situations Stems and palming: Using opposing forces when holds are sparse

Movement Sequences and Flow

Planning Your Choreography

Think of climbing as a dance where each move sets up the next:

Static vs. Dynamic movement:

• Static: Controlled, deliberate movement with three points of contact
• Dynamic: Coordinated movement using momentum, including dynos and deadpoints

Body positioning:

• Square stance: Facing the wall, good for balance on vertical terrain
• Turned stance: Side-on to the wall, efficient for reaching distant holds
• Back flag/front flag: Advanced techniques for maintaining balance

Reading the Crux

The crux (hardest section) often requires the most detailed planning:

Identify the crux location: Usually obvious from the ground Plan your approach: Arrive at the crux as fresh as possible Sequence the moves: Sometimes the individual moves aren’t hard, but the sequence is tricky Plan your recovery: Know where you can rest after the crux

Energy Management Through Route Reading

Identifying Rest Opportunities

Obvious rests:

• Large ledges where you can stand comfortably
• Jugs where you can hang with minimal effort
• Knee bars or other body positions that take weight off your arms

Micro-rests:

• Stems where you can get some weight off your arms
• Good foot positions that allow you to shake out one hand
• Body positions that distribute weight efficiently

Pacing Strategy

Know when to move quickly: Through pumpy sections or over poor holds Know when to slow down: At technical sections requiring precision Plan your recovery: Use good holds and rest positions to recover

Common Route Reading Mistakes

Tunnel Vision

The problem: Focusing only on hand holds and ignoring feet The solution: Always consider foot options for each hand position

Over-analyzing

The problem: Spending too much time planning and not enough time climbing The solution: Get the general plan right, then adapt as you climb

Ignoring Your Style

The problem: Forcing a sequence that doesn’t match your strengths The solution: Look for alternatives that play to your abilities (reach, flexibility, strength)

Not Reading Ahead

The problem: Planning only the next move instead of thinking several moves ahead The solution: Try to stay 3-4 moves ahead in your planning

Advanced Route Reading Techniques

Reading Body Position

Consider how your body needs to be positioned for each move:

Center of gravity: Where does your weight need to be? Hip positioning: Keeping hips close to the wall is usually more efficient Shoulder position: Which direction should you be facing?

Identifying Alternative Sequences

Look for options: Most routes have multiple ways to climb them Consider your strengths: Tall climbers might skip holds that shorter climbers need Plan for fatigue: Your sequence might change if you get pumped

Reading Others’ Beta

Watch other climbers: See what works and what doesn’t Filter the information: What works for them might not work for you Combine strategies: Take the best elements from different approaches

Practical Exercises for Improving Route Reading

Ground-Up Analysis

1. Spend 5 minutes studying a route before climbing
2. Verbalize your plan to a partner
3. Climb the route and note where your plan worked or failed
4. Analyze discrepancies and plan again

The One-Hang Rule

Challenge yourself: Try to complete routes with only one hang/rest Forces better planning: You’ll need to read the route more carefully Builds confidence: Teaches you to commit to sequences

Video Analysis

Record yourself climbing: Review footage to see where you deviated from efficient lines Watch professional climbers: Study how they read and execute routes Compare different climbers: See how body types affect route reading

Mental Strategies for Better Route Reading

Visualization

Mental rehearsal: Climb the route in your mind before starting Positive imagery: Visualize successful completion, not failure Sequence memorization: Break complex sequences into memorable chunks

Adaptability

Stay flexible: Be ready to change your plan if something isn’t working Read and react: Sometimes the best move only becomes apparent when you’re on the route Trust your instincts: If something feels wrong, look for alternatives

Environmental Factors in Route Reading

Rock Quality

Solid rock: Allows for more aggressive movement Loose or questionable rock: Requires more careful movement and backup plans Weather conditions: Wet rock, extreme temperatures, or wind all affect route choice

Time Considerations

Light conditions: Shadows can hide or reveal holds Partner considerations: If you’re climbing in a team, plan for efficient belaying Time pressure: Sometimes you need to climb efficiently to beat weather or darkness

Taking Your Route Reading to the Next Level

Style-Specific Considerations

Sport climbing: Focus on efficiency and energy conservation Traditional climbing: Consider protection placement and retreat options Bouldering: Often requires more precise, powerful sequences Multi-pitch: Factor in rope management and belaying logistics

Grade-Specific Strategies

Easier routes: Focus on movement efficiency and learning basic patterns Harder routes: Require more detailed analysis and multiple sequence options At your limit: May require working the route in sections to understand the beta

Conclusion: The Art and Science of Route Reading

Route reading is both an analytical skill and an intuitive art. The more you practice observing routes, trying different sequences, and analyzing what works, the better you’ll become at seeing the most efficient path up any piece of rock.

Remember that route reading improves with experience on varied terrain. Every rock type, climbing style, and route difficulty teaches you something new about reading stone. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different sequences, and always be learning from other climbers’ approaches.

The goal isn’t to climb every route the “right” way—it’s to climb it your way, efficiently and safely. As you develop your route reading skills, you’ll find that you can climb harder routes with less effort, enjoy longer climbing sessions, and approach new challenges with greater confidence.

The rock is always teaching—you just need to learn how to listen. Happy route reading, and may your beta always be spot-on!